Changes

** Once you have the two components weighed out, mix them together.  The mixture should turn mildly opaque and become viscous. When the components are mixed completely, the mixture should turn clear and the viscosity should decrease a bit, becoming more like cooking oil in viscosity.

** Once you have the two components weighed out, mix them together.  The mixture should turn mildly opaque and become viscous. When the components are mixed completely, the mixture should turn clear and the viscosity should decrease a bit, becoming more like cooking oil in viscosity.

** There will be bubbles left in the mixture. To get rid of them, just let the mixture sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and the bubbles will come to the surface.  Then gently pop the bubbles with a tongue depressor. Now since the pot life of epoxy is 40 to 45 minutes, you will have plenty of time to get rid of the bubbles.  [[Image:Setup Noepoxy.JPG|thumb|Fibers aligned and ready to receive epoxy]]

** There will be bubbles left in the mixture. To get rid of them, just let the mixture sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and the bubbles will come to the surface.  Then gently pop the bubbles with a tongue depressor. Now since the pot life of epoxy is 40 to 45 minutes, you will have plenty of time to get rid of the bubbles.  [[Image:Setup Noepoxy.JPG|thumb|Fibers aligned and ready to receive epoxy]]

** Once you have the mixed the epoxy, lay the fibers out in the apparatus how you want them to be glued together as shown in the picture to the left.  Click on the picture to get a better look at the fibers. Make sure that the ends of the fibers are clean and polished before applying the epoxy.  This can and should be done while you wait for the bubbles to escape from the epoxy.  

** Once you have the mixed the epoxy, lay the fibers out in the apparatus how you want them to be glued together as shown in the picture to the left.  Click on the picture to get a better look at the fibers. Make sure that the ends of the fibers are clean and polished before applying the epoxy.  This can and should be done while you wait for the bubbles to escape from the epoxy. [[Image:Glued Fibers.JPG|thumb|left|Fibers after epoxy has been applied]]

** Now that you have the fibers set and ready to receive the epoxy, take a clean pipette with a dispensing pump and install a tip on the end of the pipette.  It is not extremely easy to tell when a tip is completely attached to the end of the pipette, so practice installing pipette tips before running through the entire procedure for the first time.  [[Image:Glued Fibers.JPG|thumb|left|Fibers after epoxy has been applied]]

** Now that you have the fibers set and ready to receive the epoxy, take a clean pipette with a dispensing pump and install a tip on the end of the pipette.  It is not extremely easy to tell when a tip is completely attached to the end of the pipette, so practice installing pipette tips before running through the entire procedure for the first time.   

** With the tip on the pipette, get a small amount of the epoxy in the pipette, and then inject it into the small gap between the two fibers. The final result should look like the picture seen to the right. Click on the photo to see a bigger image.

** With the tip on the pipette, get a small amount of the epoxy in the pipette, and then inject it into the small gap between the two fibers. The final result should look like the picture seen to the right. Click on the photo to see a bigger image.

** Now that the epoxy has been applied, make the final adjustments to the fibers to make sure that they are at the distance desired and that they are lined up properly.  All the adjustments should be minor ones, correcting any motion that occurred during the application process.  Then let the epoxy cure for 18 to 24 hours at STP, or for 1 to 2 hours at 60 Celsius.

** Now that the epoxy has been applied, make the final adjustments to the fibers to make sure that they are at the distance desired and that they are lined up properly.  All the adjustments should be minor ones, correcting any motion that occurred during the application process.  Then let the epoxy cure for 18 to 24 hours at STP, or for 1 to 2 hours at 60 Celsius.

* The preparation begins with placing all the properly polished fibers/scintillators into the chimneys as seen in the picture to the right. This task, of course, is simple, however there are some important things to keep in mind that will help insure a successful gluing. These things are:

* The preparation begins with placing all the properly polished fibers/scintillators into the chimneys as seen in the picture to the right. This task, of course, is simple, however there are some important things to keep in mind that will help insure a successful gluing. These things are:

** When placing the waveguides in their chimney, be sure to arrange the fibers so that the ends to be glued are extruding out from the chimney no more then about 3 to 4 mm. The reasoning for this is that the channels in the chimney are wider then the fibers allowing for "wiggle room" and the shorter the amount of fiber sticking out is the less the waveguide will move.

** When placing the waveguides in their chimney, be sure to arrange the fibers so that the ends to be glued are extruding out from the chimney no more then about 3 to 4 mm. The reasoning for this is that the channels in the chimney are wider then the fibers allowing for "wiggle room" and the shorter the amount of fiber sticking out is the less the waveguide will move.

** Once the waveguides are in place screw down the top plate to hold them firmly in place. Then secure the waveguide chimney to a flat surface using c-clamps as seen in the picture below. Add the extra c-clamp in the middle to ensure that the waveguides will not move and are lying flat in the channels.  

** Once the waveguides are in place screw down the top plate to hold them firmly in place. Then secure the waveguide chimney to a flat surface using c-clamps as seen in the picture below. Add the extra c-clamp in the middle to ensure that the waveguides will not move and are lying flat in the channels.  

** The chimney with the scintillators should not be secured with the top plate like the waveguides because during the application process, as will be discussed further down, the scintillators will need to be able to move.  However the chimney itself should be secured to the flat surface with the waveguides. (See to the picture above)  

** The chimney with the scintillators should not be secured with the top plate like the waveguides because during the application process, as will be discussed further down, the scintillators will need to be able to move.  However the chimney itself should be secured to the flat surface with the waveguides. (See to the picture above)  

** Once both chimneys are secured to the plate, use the tweezers and the watchmaker's loupe 10x to gently slide each of the scintillators up to their waveguide counterpart to make sure that they are aligned properly.

** Once both chimneys are secured to the plate, use the tweezers and the watchmaker's loupe 10x to gently slide each of the scintillators up to their waveguide counterpart to make sure that they are aligned properly. Most likely the fibers will not line up exactly. To make major adjustments loosen the clamps holding down the scintillator chimney and move the entire group. For minor adjustments, loosen the extra clamp holding the waveguides and make the adjustments to the fibers using the tweezers. Once every thing is lined up its time to start gluing.

 

 

 

== Protochimney ==

== Protochimney ==