Fiber Polishing Procedure - Revision history

Warrenmj: Adding some tips on polishing

2018-01-20T03:20:39Z

Adding some tips on polishing

Warrenmj: /* General guidelines */ Wording clarification

2018-01-08T20:03:07Z

General guidelines: Wording clarification

Warrenmj: Adding information on the updated polishing procedure that uses the grinding wheel. The information for the old procedure is now at the bottom of the page.

2018-01-05T14:31:22Z

Adding information on the updated polishing procedure that uses the grinding wheel. The information for the old procedure is now at the bottom of the page.

Ploen: /* Individual polishing puck */

2016-03-04T20:17:54Z

Individual polishing puck

Liana at 19:33, 9 June 2014

2014-06-09T19:33:26Z

Bwillis at 15:52, 9 June 2014

2014-06-09T15:52:10Z

Bwillis at 15:47, 9 June 2014

2014-06-09T15:47:02Z

Bwillis at 15:45, 9 June 2014

2014-06-09T15:45:57Z

Jonathank at 20:48, 19 May 2014

2014-05-19T20:48:11Z

Jonathank at 19:42, 15 January 2014

2014-01-15T19:42:59Z

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ==General guidelines==
 In all cases, the bundle should be kept near the center of the grinding wheel. This makes it easier to control the bundle, because the wheel isn’t on quite straight, and it wiggles less at the center than at the sides. Always use gentle pressure when holding the bundle against the wheel, just enough to keep it touching the wheel. Even gentler pressure is helpful when using finer grits, so little that the fibers may not even always touch the wheel, because of the wobble of the wheel: as the wheel makes one revolution, it grinds the fibers with the part of the wheel slanted toward them and misses them with the part slanted away. The fibers really do look better after a little time with gentle pressure, because the grit doesn’t dig in as deep. On the plastic grits (at least the five micron grit), it can be helpful to move the bundle around a little bit on the wheel, so as to grind the bundle in different directions. This helps remove striations.
 ==Light Guides==

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 ==General guidelines==
-In all cases, the bundle should be kept at the center of the grinding wheel. This makes it easier to control the bundle, because the wheel isn’t on quite straight, and it wiggles less at the center than at the sides. Always use gentle pressure when holding the bundle against the wheel, just enough to keep it touching the wheel. Even gentler pressure is helpful when using finer grits, so little that the fibers may not even always touch the wheel, because of the wobble of the wheel. The fibers really do look better after a little time with gentle pressure, because the grit doesn’t dig in as deep. On the plastic grits (at least the five micron grit), it can be helpful to move the bundle around a little bit on the wheel, so as to grind the bundle in different directions. This helps remove striations.
+In all cases, the bundle should be kept near the center of the grinding wheel. This makes it easier to control the bundle, because the wheel isn’t on quite straight, and it wiggles less at the center than at the sides. Always use gentle pressure when holding the bundle against the wheel, just enough to keep it touching the wheel. Even gentler pressure is helpful when using finer grits, so little that the fibers may not even always touch the wheel, because of the wobble of the wheel: as the wheel makes one revolution, it grinds the fibers with the part of the wheel slanted toward them and misses them with the part slanted away. The fibers really do look better after a little time with gentle pressure, because the grit doesn’t dig in as deep. On the plastic grits (at least the five micron grit), it can be helpful to move the bundle around a little bit on the wheel, so as to grind the bundle in different directions. This helps remove striations.
 ==Light Guides==

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:31, 5 January 2018
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		+	Micah Warren \| August 21, 2017
		+
		+	==General guidelines==
		+	In all cases, the bundle should be kept at the center of the grinding wheel. This makes it easier to control the bundle, because the wheel isn’t on quite straight, and it wiggles less at the center than at the sides. Always use gentle pressure when holding the bundle against the wheel, just enough to keep it touching the wheel. Even gentler pressure is helpful when using finer grits, so little that the fibers may not even always touch the wheel, because of the wobble of the wheel. The fibers really do look better after a little time with gentle pressure, because the grit doesn’t dig in as deep. On the plastic grits (at least the five micron grit), it can be helpful to move the bundle around a little bit on the wheel, so as to grind the bundle in different directions. This helps remove striations.
		+
		+	==Light Guides==
		+
		+	The light guides should be bundled so that they stick out of the end collar by 0.1 inch.
		+
		+	===For the fuse (upstream, non-elastic) end===
		+	*400 grit: take off whatever you need in order to bottom out to the 14-16 thousandths of an inch feeler gauge. Use speed 30 on the grinding wheel.
		+	*1000 grit: take off ~8 thousandths of an inch, to bottom out to the 8 thousandths of an inch feeler gauge. When you are near the end, be sure to use just extra gentle pressure. By the end, the bundle should have only fine striations, and even those should be glossy. Speed 15 is good.
		+	*5 micron: take off about whatever you need to make the bundle look smooth and shiny (maybe 3 thousandths of an inch). Use speed 15.
		+	*Paper: just for a couple minutes. Speed 15 is good; be gentle and center the bundle. Only use paper if the fibers don’t look good enough after the five micron grit. (Sometimes you can even get away without using even the five micron grit.) The bundle should be nice and shiny, with minimal striations.
		+
		+	===For the SiPM (downstream, elastic) end===
		+	All the techniques are the same as for the upstream end; only the distances change:
		+	*400 grit: take off whatever you need in order to bottom out to the 16 thousandths of an inch feeler gauge. Use speed 30 on the grinding wheel.
		+	*1000 grit: take off 8 thousandths of an inch, to bottom out to the 8 thousandths of an inch feeler gauge. When you are near the end, be sure to use just extra gentle pressure. By the end, the bundle should have only fine striations, and even those should be glossy. Speed 15 is good.
		+	*There’s no need to use a feeler gauge with the rest of the grits. Just polish with each grit until it looks like the bundle is a good as that grit will get it.
		+
		+
		+	==Scintillating Fibers==
		+	[This has yet to be written. For now, see the [[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lTzhqt9KMahyBxVGTfyB8EtZjd1UG3V5iKoimt5Nie4/edit?usp=sharing preliminary polishing information]].]
		+
		+
		+	=Old Procedure (Used Before Summer '17)=
	==Overview==		==Overview==
	The non fused ends of each fiber must be polished to a mirrored finish. This allows the greatest amount of light transmission through the end of the fiber. Fibers are polished in their appropriate collars, SciFis in their 6x6 collar and light guides in their 5x6 collar. Polishing bundled fibers in their collars affords a number of advantages, the main ones being square fiber ends and minimal cladding flaring. Because the fibers are polished in their collars, it is important that the fiber ends are flush with one another. The scintillating fibers are easily made flush in their collar, but with light guides it is not so easy. For this reason, the light guides are polished as soon as they are returned from end-milling and while they are still in their collars.		The non fused ends of each fiber must be polished to a mirrored finish. This allows the greatest amount of light transmission through the end of the fiber. Fibers are polished in their appropriate collars, SciFis in their 6x6 collar and light guides in their 5x6 collar. Polishing bundled fibers in their collars affords a number of advantages, the main ones being square fiber ends and minimal cladding flaring. Because the fibers are polished in their collars, it is important that the fiber ends are flush with one another. The scintillating fibers are easily made flush in their collar, but with light guides it is not so easy. For this reason, the light guides are polished as soon as they are returned from end-milling and while they are still in their collars.

@@ Line 64: / Line 64: @@
 * With the side to be polished protruding the slightest bit (about .5 mm), hand tighten down the screw that holds the fiber in place.
 ** Adjust the side screws until the fiber is perpendicular to the base of the polishing puck.
-** A very small protrusion and a perpendicular fiber help endure that rounded edges are kept to a minimum and the fiber has a square polished face.
+** A very small protrusion and a perpendicular fiber help ensure that rounded edges are kept to a minimum and the fiber has a square polished face.
 * Apply less pressure on the individual polishing puck than you used to polish a bundle. Too much pressure can bend or break the fiber.
 * Continue to polish using small circles. Check the fiber end frequently as the time required to polish one fibers is much less than the time required to polish an entire bundle.
 * While polishing, be sure to support the rest of the fiber so that it does not kink.
 * Put the now polished fibers with the rest of the polished bundle, label it, and put it in the intermediate storage box, polished side to the left.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-'''Overview'''
+==Overview==
 The non fused ends of each fiber must be polished to a mirrored finish.  This allows the greatest amount of light transmission through the end of the fiber.  Fibers are polished in their appropriate collars, SciFis in their 6x6 collar and light guides in their 5x6 collar.  Polishing bundled fibers in their collars affords a number of advantages, the main ones being square fiber ends and minimal cladding flaring.  Because the fibers are polished in their collars, it is important that the fiber ends are flush with one another.  The scintillating fibers are easily made flush in their collar, but with light guides it is not so easy.  For this reason, the light guides are polished as soon as they are returned from end-milling and while they are still in their collars.
-'''Procedures'''
+==Pre-Polishing Procedures==
 * Clean the table that you will be polishing fibers on.  Any dust, sand, or dirt on the table will translate through the paper and scratch the fibers.
-* Set out 2-4 pieces of clean copier paper in a stack, and tape them to the table on each corner.
+* Set out 2-4 pieces of clean copier paper or index card paper in a stack, and tape them to the table on each corner.
 [[File:JK Polishing Setup.JPG|thumb|center|Copier paper is used to polish the fibers.]]
-''Light guide fibers''
+===Light Guide Fibers===
 * If polishing recently end-milled light guides, find the side that has the most fibers flush with one another.  This is the side you will polish.
 ** Note: the end-milling process cuts the fibers about .5 mm from the end of the collar.  This half of a millimeter protrusion of fibers will allow the fibers to make contact with the paper instead of the aluminum collar, allowing the fibers to be polished.  This protrusion is an artifact of the end-milling process, and should be taken full advantage of.
 ** Remove the collar from the end of the fibers that is not being polished.
 * Place the collar square on the paper and support the other end of the light guide fibers by holding them above your head for the entirety of the polishing process.
 {|style="margin: 0 auto;"
@@ Line 21: / Line 21: @@
 |}
-''Scintillating fibers''
+===Scintillating Fibers===
 * If polishing scintillating fibers, select the bag from the dark box with the bundle of fibers to be polished.
 * Determine which end of the fibers has the flattest end-mill cut.  This is the side that will be polished.
@@ Line 39: / Line 40: @@
 |}
-''Polishing''
+==Polishing==
 * Begin making small circular movements with the collar on the paper while applying even pressure downwards.
 * After a while the paper will become smooth and its polishing properties will decrease.  When this occurs start to slowly move to another portion of the paper.
@@ Line 45: / Line 46: @@
 ** Note: Maintain at least two (and no more than four) sheets of paper on the table at a time.  Too few or too many sheets can result in possible cladding damage.
 * Continue polishing until a mirrored surface is achieved.
-* If a fiber slips in the collar and is no longer flush with the other fibers it may need to be polished individually.
+* If a fiber slips in the collar and is no longer flush with the other fibers it may need to be polished individually using the [http://zeus.phys.uconn.edu/wiki/index.php?title=Fiber_Polishing_Procedure&action=submit#Individual_polishing_puck Individual Polishing Puck].
 ** If this is the case, continue polishing until the other fibers in the bundle are polished.
 * After a mirror finish is achieved for an entire bundle, it should be labeled and put in the appropriate area of the intermediate storage box.
 ** Polished ends of light guides should all face to the left in the dark box as consistent storing of polished fibers helps to save time during the fusing process.
@@ Line 58: / Line 57: @@
 |}
-''Individual polishing puck''
+===Individual polishing puck===
-* If, while polishing in the collars, one or more of the fibers does not seem to be making contact with the paper, continue polishing the bundle until the other fibers are polished, take the collar off, and use the individual polishing puck on the non polished fibers.
+If, while polishing in the collars, one or more of the fibers does not seem to be making contact with the paper, continue polishing the bundle until the other fibers are polished. The individual polishing puck does not create as good as a polish as is created when polishing a bundle, so only use the individual polishing puck as a last resort.
-** Put the side to be polished through the single square hole in the individual polishing puck.
+[[File:JK Individual Polishing Puck.JPG|thumb|left|The individual polishing puck with a fiber protruding about .5 mm.]]
-** With the side to be polished protruding the slightest bit (about .5 mm), hand tighten down the screw that holds the fiber in place.
+* Remove the fibers you need to polish individually from the bundle.
 ** Adjust the side screws until the fiber is perpendicular to the base of the polishing puck.
 ** A very small protrusion and a perpendicular fiber help endure that rounded edges are kept to a minimum and the fiber has a square polished face.
-** While polishing be sure to support the rest of the fiber so that it does not kink.
+* Apply less pressure on the individual polishing puck than you used to polish a bundle. Too much pressure can bend or break the fiber.
-** Put the now polished fibers with the rest of the polished bundle, label it, and put it in the intermediate storage box, polished side to the left.
+* Continue to polish using small circles. Check the fiber end frequently as the time required to polish one fibers is much less than the time required to polish an entire bundle.
-[[File:JK Individual Polishing Puck.JPG|thumb|center|The individual polishing puck with a fiber protruding about .5 mm.]]
+* While polishing, be sure to support the rest of the fiber so that it does not kink.

@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 {|style="margin: 0 auto;"
-| [[File:JK SciFi Collar.JPG|thumb|upright|An example of a bundle of scintillating fibers that has been setup for polishing.]]]
+| [[File:JK SciFi Collar.JPG|thumb|upright|An example of a bundle of scintillating fibers that has been set up for polishing.]]]
 | [[File:JK Scintillating Spacer.JPG|thumb|upright|The scintillating bundle positioned on its spacer, painter's tape in this case.  The tape is positioned such that it sits underneath the collar but not underneath the fibers.]]
 |}

@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 * Look at the table side of the fibers.
 ** If they are flush with one another they are ready to be polished.
-** If they do not all look flush with each other, repeat the process with the spacers above until a relatively smooth polishing surface can be achieved.
+** If they do not all look flush with each other, repeat the process with the spacers above until a relatively smooth polishing surface is achieved.
 {|style="margin: 0 auto;"

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:42, 15 January 2014
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	** While polishing be sure to support the rest of the fiber so that it does not kink.		** While polishing be sure to support the rest of the fiber so that it does not kink.
	** Put the now polished fibers with the rest of the polished bundle, label it, and put it in the intermediate storage box, polished side to the left.		** Put the now polished fibers with the rest of the polished bundle, label it, and put it in the intermediate storage box, polished side to the left.
		+	[[File:JK Individual Polishing Puck.JPG\|thumb\|center\|The individual polishing puck with a fiber protruding about .5 mm.]]